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Guide

Biloxi After Katrina

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Almost everything a visitor sees on the Biloxi waterfront is younger than 2006. This is why, told with the dates, the numbers and the things that were not rebuilt.

On this page

If you walk the Biloxi waterfront wondering why a city founded in 1699 looks so new, this page is the answer. Hurricane Katrina came ashore on the morning of Monday 29 August 2005, near the Louisiana-Mississippi line, and the storm surge that followed it destroyed the Mississippi coast's waterfront from Waveland to Pascagoula. People died here. Much of what you are looking at is younger than 2006 because the thing that stood there before was removed.

This is not background colour for a holiday. It is the single most important fact about the place you are visiting, and treating it as anything less is how visitors end up asking a local something careless.

What happened

Katrina made its final landfall as a major hurricane, but the damage on this coast was not principally a wind event. It was water. The surge along the Mississippi shore pushed inland up to about twelve miles in places, and it did not so much flood buildings as remove them.

The highest recorded high-water mark on the coast, 27.8 feet, was taken at Pass Christian, about twenty miles west of here, and was reported as a record storm surge for the United States. Biloxi's own surge is commonly given at around twenty-two feet. On a peninsula whose highest natural ground is a few feet above sea level, those numbers mean the water crossed the whole of it.

The confirmed death toll in Mississippi was 238, of which 172 are classified as directly caused by the storm. Harrison County, which contains Biloxi, Gulfport and Pass Christian, accounted for 126 of those by early September 2005.

Why so many people stayed

One reason is worth stating, because it explains a great deal about how this coast talks about storms. Hurricane Camille in 1969 had been the local benchmark for a survivable catastrophe, and a generation who had come through Camille in their houses made the same judgement in 2005. Katrina's surge was higher.

Why the waterfront went completely

Two things about Biloxi's geography and its law made this worse than it would have been almost anywhere else.

The geography

The city sits on a low peninsula with the Mississippi Sound on one side and the Back Bay on the other, and the Sound is a shallow lagoon that funnels and piles water rather than dispersing it. Surge that would spread out along an open coast had nowhere to go.

The law

Under the state's 1990 gaming act, casino floors had to be on water, so every coastal casino was a barge moored against the shore. All thirteen of them along the Mississippi coast were destroyed or heavily damaged. Several came off their moorings entirely and were driven inland, through buildings, across highways, onto sites where they did enormous secondary damage. One landed on the construction site of the Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art, half a mile from the water.

In a special session that autumn the legislature changed the rule, permitting coastal casinos to rebuild on land within eight hundred feet of the shoreline. Every large building on today's beach strip exists because of that vote.

What came back, and when

The rebuilding was neither quick nor even. This is the sequence a visitor can actually see:

ReopenedWhat
June 2006The Schooner Pier Complex at Point Cadet
29 August 2006Beau Rivage, on the first anniversary of the storm
July 2007Hard Rock Biloxi, which had been days from opening when Katrina hit
1 November 2007The replacement Biloxi Bay Bridge to Ocean Springs, with a walking and cycling path
3 June 2008Beauvoir's main house, after severe damage
February 2010The Biloxi Lighthouse, relit after restoration
8 November 2010The Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art campus, with its ceramics centre following in 2012
2013The Jefferson Davis Presidential Library at Beauvoir
2 August 2014The Maritime and Seafood Industry Museum, nine years after it was destroyed
29 August 2020Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport, opened on the fifteenth anniversary

Read that column of dates again. The casinos were back within two years. The museum that holds this city's own history took nine.

What did not come back

Some things were not rebuilt, and a visitor should know which, because their absence is part of what you are looking at.

  • Tullis-Toledano Manor, an 1850s house on the beach road, was destroyed when a casino barge came ashore onto the site. It was not rebuilt.
  • The Marine Life Oceanarium in Gulfport, a coast institution for decades, did not reopen. The Mississippi Aquarium that opened in 2020 is a new and separate institution, not a continuation of it.
  • Whole residential streets in East Biloxi. The neighbourhoods behind the Point were among the worst hit, and two decades on there are still concrete slabs, empty lots and vacant corners where houses stood. Some of that land was bought out; some of it was simply never rebuilt on.
  • A share of the population. The city lost people after 2005 and took more than a decade to recover; the 2020 census counted 49,449, still a little short of where Biloxi stood in 2000.
  • Trees. Salt water killed thousands of live oaks along the shore. Some of the dead ones along US 90 were carved in place by a chainsaw sculptor into pelicans, herons and dolphins, and they stand there now as a memorial that is easy to drive past without understanding.

Where to understand it properly

The Katrina Memorial on the Town Green, downtown by the beach road, is the place to start. It is a plain granite wall carrying the names of coast residents killed in the storm. It takes five minutes and it reframes everything you look at afterwards.

The Maritime and Seafood Industry Museum at Point Cadet holds a dedicated hurricane exhibit. The building itself is the story: this museum was destroyed in 2005 and took nine years to return. It is the single best place on the coast to understand what happened, told by the industry it happened to.

The Biloxi Lighthouse, standing in the median of US 90 since 1848, came through it. Cast iron, a little over sixty feet, relit in 2010 after restoration. There is a reason it ended up on the city's welcome signs.

And then simply look, once you know what to look for: buildings raised on piers, ground floors designed to be sacrificed, car parks where houses were, and a beach road where almost every structure dates from after 2006.

How to visit respectfully

This is a working city where the storm is within living memory for nearly every adult you will meet, and where a good many people lost family. A few things follow from that.

Ask, but do not press. Plenty of people here will tell you their Katrina story at length, and some will change the subject, and both are fine. Do not go looking for ruins in residential streets to photograph; those empty lots belong to somebody. Do not describe the rebuilding as a miracle, which locals hear as a way of skipping over twenty years of insurance fights and federal programmes. And if you are here on 29 August, expect commemorations, and expect them to be for residents rather than for visitors.

The most useful thing a visitor can do is get the facts right and spend money in the city. That is not a platitude. This economy was rebuilt by people who stayed.

Camille, Katrina and why locals compare them

You will hear both names in the same sentence on this coast, and the comparison carries real weight rather than being nostalgia.

Hurricane Camille struck the Mississippi coast in August 1969 as one of the most intense hurricanes on record to hit the United States, and for thirty-six years it was the benchmark against which every storm here was judged. It also cut Ship Island in two, opening a channel that stayed open for fifty years until the Army Corps closed it in 2019.

That benchmark is part of why 2005 was so deadly. People who had ridden out Camille in their own houses made a reasonable-seeming judgement that they could ride out Katrina, and the surge was higher. Emergency managers on this coast have talked about the Camille problem ever since, and it is the reason evacuation messaging here now talks about water rather than wind speed.

For a visitor the practical version is short. Category number tells you about wind. Surge is what kills people on this coast, and a weaker storm on a worse track can put more water over this peninsula than a stronger one. If an evacuation is called while you are here, go.

What this means if you are visiting in season

The Atlantic hurricane season runs from 1 June to 30 November, and on this coast the statistical peak is late August into September. That is not a reason to avoid the Gulf in summer. It is a reason to book differently.

Three things worth doing. Pay for the refundable rate rather than the cheapest one, particularly for anything in late August or September, and read what the cancellation terms actually cover. Take travel insurance that names named-storm cancellation. And if you are driving, know before you arrive that the evacuation routes here run north, and that they are signed.

Watch the National Hurricane Center rather than a forecast app, and note that a watch or warning here is issued for surge separately from wind. Hotels on this coast evacuate when the county says so, and casino resorts close their floors; neither will keep you as a guest through a landfall, and neither should.

The routine summer version of all this is much smaller: afternoon thunderstorms most days, lightning over open water, and an occasional day when the boats do not sail.


Last updated

Opening hours, ordinances and prices move with the season. We re-check this guide rather than rewrite it, and the date above is the last time someone did. How we research and correct.

Questions

Common questions

How badly was Biloxi damaged by Hurricane Katrina?

Severely. The storm surge on 29 August 2005 destroyed most of the Biloxi waterfront, pushed inland across the peninsula and, in parts of Mississippi, reached about twelve miles from the shore. All thirteen coastal casino barges were destroyed or heavily damaged, the Biloxi Bay Bridge was destroyed, and whole residential blocks in East Biloxi were removed. Mississippi recorded 238 deaths, 126 of them in Harrison County by early September 2005.

Can you still see Hurricane Katrina damage in Biloxi?

Not as open ruins along the beach road, but the evidence is everywhere once you know what to look for. Almost every building on the waterfront dates from after 2006. Side streets in East Biloxi still hold empty lots and concrete slabs where houses stood. Buildings are raised on piers, and dead live oaks killed by salt water were carved into sculptures along US 90. The Katrina Memorial on the Town Green names those who died.

Why do Biloxi casinos sit on land now?

Because Katrina proved that floating them did not work. Mississippi's 1990 gaming law required casino floors to be on water, so the coastal casinos were barges moored against the shore; the surge tore them loose and drove several inland, where they destroyed other buildings. In a special session that autumn the legislature allowed coastal casinos to rebuild on land within eight hundred feet of the shoreline, which is why the modern strip is built of concrete.

Is it insensitive to ask people in Biloxi about Katrina?

Not if you ask rather than press. The storm is within living memory for nearly every adult here and many lost family, homes or businesses, and people vary enormously in how much they want to discuss it. Let them set the depth. What does grate is treating it as a spectacle: photographing empty residential lots, or describing the rebuild as a miracle, which skips over twenty years of insurance disputes and federal programmes.

What is the Biloxi Katrina Memorial?

A granite memorial on the Town Green in downtown Biloxi, beside the beach road, carrying the names of coast residents killed in the storm. It is free, open air and takes only a few minutes, and it is the single most useful five minutes a visitor can spend here, because it puts the rebuilt waterfront you are about to drive along into its proper context. Expect commemorations around 29 August each year.

How long did it take Biloxi to rebuild after Katrina?

It depends entirely on what you mean. Beau Rivage reopened on the first anniversary, in August 2006, and Hard Rock opened in July 2007. The replacement Biloxi Bay Bridge opened in November 2007. But the Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art campus did not open until November 2010, and the Maritime and Seafood Industry Museum took until August 2014, nine years. Parts of residential East Biloxi have never been rebuilt at all.

On this site

Where this applies

The pages this guide leans on, and the places it sends you in Biloxi.

  • Things to do

    Museums & History

    A Gehry campus built for a potter, a schooner museum at Point Cadet, Beauvoir, an 1848 lighthouse and how Biloxi keeps the record of…

  • Things to do

    Attractions

    Every Biloxi attraction that earns the drive, mapped along one road: the 1848 lighthouse, Point Cadet, the Gehry museum campus and the…

  • Things to do

    Things to Do

    What to actually do in Biloxi: eight casino resorts, a shrimp fleet at Point Cadet, serious museums, and clear Gulf water twelve miles…

  • Things to do

    Free Things to Do

    Biloxi costs less than any Gulf coast town its size. Free parking, 26 miles of beach, a bridge path over open water and a memorial worth…

  • Attraction

    Katrina Memorial

    A monument on the Town Green carrying the names of people who died in this city on 29 August 2005.

  • Attraction

    Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum

    Canneries, schooners, net-making and the Vietnamese shrimp fleet: the museum that explains why Biloxi is here at all.

  • Attraction

    Biloxi Lighthouse

    An 1848 cast-iron tower marooned in the median of a four-lane highway, kept for sixty-three years by one family of women.

  • Attraction

    Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art

    Frank Gehry's metal pods set among live oaks, built to hold the twisted, paper-thin pottery of a man who called himself mad.

About the author

Culture & History Editor

Adeline writes the history pages, which on this coast means handling hard subjects carefully: the gaming industry that remade the city after 1990, the storm that took its waterfront in 2005, the Vietnamese-American fleet that rebuilt the seafood trade, and sites like Beauvoir whose interpretation is contested. She reports what is there and what is claimed, and does not tidy the record.

Our editors are staff bylines, not contributors paid per booking. Nothing on this page was chosen by a tour operator.

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